24/8 Hole in the Rock / Not quite sealed
Today, unfortunately, it’s time to say goodbye to Shetland again. Until the ferry in the evening I’ll still swing a few hooks over the island. Northwest of Tangwick Colin recommended Dore Holm to me, a steep rock formation with a hole, or a doorway, basically. Even more impressive was the area around the nearby lighthouse just around the corner. A jagged cliff and a good spot to watch seabirds. The landscape and the weather at this moment put on a real show of impressiveness. Back on the motorcycle I have to bite my lip. I noticed a light oil film between engine and gearbox. That was not going to impress me at all. The weak point with the defective seal on the gearbox was there already on the first day, and, being cautious as I am, I had snatched spare parts from Volker just in case it happened again on the road. So, don’t panic, I’ll contact Colin and we’ll find a way to fix it. I wrote an email – unfortunately I haven’t gotten his phone number yet – and then kept on riding. After a little more than an hour I started getting nervous. Check‑in is at 5 p.m., it’s 1 p.m. What if Colin only checks his emails after dinner? At a construction site traffic light stands a biker with a Scottish licence plate. I combine things at lightning speed (hey, there’s no laughing): island » small » local » everybody knows everybody! I make a U‑turn and give the AWO the reins and chase after him with honking and waving. He luckily catches on and we stop on the left side of the road. From my pictures he recognises my problem and tells me to follow him. He also knows Colin, who would have thought. But we go the other way, 5 km further to a friend’s workshop. The people there are absolutely helpful and let me immediately do a quick gearbox removal. They don’t believe it can be done in 20 minutes, and they also don’t believe I’ll catch my ferry in two and a half hours. They just don’t know an AWO like that. The gearbox then lies on the workbench, and to get back to the impressiveness: the gearbox is impressively dry, at least on the outside. A little shiver runs down my spine, because if it’s not the gearbox, then the crankshaft oil seal is blown. Not good! Not at all! Colin calls back and gets the problem described. He tells me to re‑assemble and come to Lerwick, then we’ll see if we can source a new seal. My intercepted biker accompanies me to Lerwick and takes me to Colin. Respect for him giving up his time for me. Then Colin gets to work and we drive together in his car to a few stations, looking for a new seal. Only, on Saturday afternoon people in Shetland aren’t exactly flocking to their workshops waving seals around “Buy here!”, “No, buy from me!”. Nothing will happen today. There are now three possibilities, Colin explains to me: Aberdeen, Inverness – both on the mainland – and Lerwick. According to Colin the best option is to stay here, because he knows pretty much everyone and everything, and we’ll probably have more luck on Monday when people are no longer occupied with the weekend. That means rebooking the ferry, which with Colin’s help is no problem. Losing two days is the smaller issue. The important thing is a new seal. Because losing oil is bad, and oil on the clutch is even worse. It’s exciting, but any thoughts of a flight stunt like in 2019 I push aside immediately. That’s not all yet. Only the cost pushes it uncomfortably high. Because of the weather forecast – storm and rain – I decide on a hotel in Calloway. Not the best, but a roof over my head, a bed and a warm shower for two nights. I stock up on goodies from the supermarket and treat myself to an evening meal in the room. Properly healthy with cheese, fruit and skyr. Yes, and a flask, for comfort’s sake. Outside it’s already getting serious, and after I’ve digested some of my frustration I start thinking about tomorrow, which could become an unplanned hiking day.